viernes, 30 de septiembre de 2011

Other Groups in Israel.



In addition to the Jewish-Arab dichotomy, and the Jewish-Muslim-Christian triad, Israel has a host of other, distinct groups that make up the balance of the population.  The Druze are a sect that grew out of Islam but keeps its religious beliefs and traditions secret.  They number some 80,000 and speak Arabic, but are a separate community.  The Druze are very loyal to whatever country they live in and serve in the IDF, often with great distinction and prominence.  There are two major Druze villages on Mount Carmel (see the Haifa section for more information.)  Druze in the Golan, on the other hand, consider themselves still  to be  Syrians.  The  Bahà’ìs are a modern faith founded in the 19th Century, and their world headquarters are in Haifa with another major shrine in Akko.  The  Bahà’ì  faith teaches that all religious prophets (Moses, Jesus, Muhammed, and Buddha among them) are from God, humankind is one, and women and men are equal.  The Bahà’ì gardens and terraces in Haifa  are among the most beautiful sites in all Israel.  Don’t miss them.  The Circassians are Muslims who are originally from the Caucasus area of southern Russia, and they settled in the area in the mid-1800s after fleeing the aftermath of a failed war against Tsarist Russia.  They speak Cherkesi, written in the Cyrillic alphabet, and live mainly in two Galilee communities.  The Bedouin Arabs are the famed desert nomads of romantic films and novels.  They comprise nearly 10% of the  Arab population and belong to some 30 tribes, most of them scattered over a wide area in the south. Formerly nomadic shepherds and herders, the Bedouins are currently in transition from a tribal social framework to a permanently settled society and are gradually entering Israel’s labor force.   This is  a controversial policy with decidedly mixed results.  You will most notice them in the Negev or in the Judean wilderness on the way to Masada and the Dead Sea.  Many Bedouin serve in the IDF, particularly as trackers, and have a very distinguished record of service.  If you tour with Adam
Sela in the Negev (see the Negev section), you may have a chance to meet local Bedouin.



jueves, 29 de septiembre de 2011

Cultural tips



Israel is an amazingly diverse place.  Jews from over a hundred countries have come there, bringing their own cultures and traditions.  Also, of course, there is a large Arab population as well, and other, smaller ethnic groups.  This makes for a culture that is  very  complex, but infinitely rich and interesting.  It is one of the things I truly love about the country.  As the head of the YMCA pre-school said,  “Americans think of themselves as a  ‘melting pot,’ but we’re more like a salad.  The cucumber still knows it’s a cucumber, and a tomato knows it’s a tomato.  But add a little lemon juice and olive oil, and we can make something wonderful and delicious.”  What a delightful summary of the wonderful diversity that is Israel!
The Jewish Population. Jews comprise  76% of Israel’s population (excluding the occupied territories). 
While many are immigrants (especially from the former Soviet Union  in the past few years), an increasing portion of the population was born there.  The native-born are called “sabras,” after a native, prickly pear cactus that is “tough and prickly on the outside, but soft and sweet on the inside” – a pretty good description of most native-born Israelis. Ethnically, Israeli Jews are broadly grouped in two major categories – the Ashkenazim and the Sephardim.  Ashkenazim, from the old Hebrew word for Germany (Ashkenaz), are Jews from western, central, and eastern European origin, including most North American Jews.  Most of the
original Zionist settlers and founders of the State of Israel came from this group, and they formed the cultural and political elite for most of the State’s early history.  The Sephardim take their name from the Hebrew word for Spain (Sephard).  This term originally referred to Jews of Spanish origin, including the dispersion that followed the expulsion of Jews from Christian Spain in 1492.  Later, the term was applied to all Jews of North African and Middle Eastern origin as well, including many Jews in Italy and the Balkans.  Following the founding of the state, huge numbers of Sephardim entered Israel after Arab countries expelled their large, long-time Jewish populations, nearly tripling Israel’s population in just three years.  The Ashkenazim saw them as more culturally backward, and the Sephardim often resented what they saw as condescending,
disrespectful, and discriminatory treatment by the Ashkenazi elite.  The Sephardim first gained significant political power with the rise of the right-wing Likud party under Menachem Begin, and still are largely aligned with the Likud and Sephardi religious parties, most notably Shas.  This is still a major fault line in Israeli cultural and political life.  Many Sephardim from Middle Eastern countries now prefer the term Mizrachim, meaning “eastern” Jews.  As an aside, I love Mizrachi food, music, and traditions. Two other groups are noteworthy.  With the era of perestroika and the eventual fall of the Soviet Union, the gates of emigration were finally thrown open to the huge community of Soviet Jews.  Since 1989, over a million Jews from the former Soviet Union have made aliyah (immigrated in Israel).  They  now make up roughly 20% of the Jewish population of Israel.  While they are overwhelmingly  Ashkenazi, integration has been rough.  Many were educated professionals arriving in a country already overly saturated with such talent and have been unable to find work in their fields (I’ve seen teachers working as hotel maids, as an example).  Others are not Jewish according to  halakha  (Orthodox Jewish law) and are thus unable to marry Jews in religious
ceremonies (the only way to get married in Israel, which has no civil marriage option).  One sees Russian signs everywhere, and you will also hear the language spoken on the street. Another fascinating group is the Ethiopian Jews.  This ancient community of black Jews traces its origin by tradition to the union of King Solomon and the Queen of Sheba, and did not even know that other Jews existed until the late 1800s.  In the 1980s and 1990s, virtually the entire community was brought to Israel in two huge airlifts, Operation Solomon and Operation Moses.  In a matter of days, over 30 El Al  and air force cargo  flights airlifted the population to make a new life in the Jewish State.  Planes even had seats taken out to bring as many as out as possible, and  several babies were born in flight.   As recounted in Donna Rosenthal’s  The Israelis,
Solomon Ezra, the Ethiopian-born Israeli coordinating the evacuation, asked the last pilot  out how many were on his plane, and he replied, “Over a thousand.”  Ezra warned him that this was impossible, that the plane could not take off with  more than  five hundred.  The pilot calmly replied, “It’s okay.  I don’t want to leave any of my people behind.”  Ezra said, “I never felt more proud to be an Israeli,” and that flight set the Guinness record for the number of passengers on one flight.   Again,  the reality of  integration has proved tougher.  The cultural, social, and educational gaps were at least as great as with the Sephardim, and add to that the issue of skin color and the resulting racism.  Still, one sees evidence of Ethiopian Jews making their way in everyday Israeli life, including as soldiers.  The Army is the great integrator of Israeli life.


Packing



Obviously, you should pack conservatively for such a far trip, and if you do forget something, it’s pretty easy to buy it in Israel (though  prices  may be higher).  Airlines are now charging more for baggage in excess of the weight limits, so beware!  On my last warm-weather trip, I got my main bag down to 42 lbs. (19 kgs).  I’m a congenital excess packer – if I can do it, you can.  - 10 - n terms of weather, Israel really only has two seasons.  The summer is from April to October, and it is warm to hot and sunny everyday, and almost never rains.  Sometime in October or November, the “winter” begins with the arrival of the rains (very welcome in this parched land), and this lasts until sometime in March or early April.  In October 2006, we had a surprising amount of rain, unusual for that time of year, but we still were able to do and see nearly
everything we wanted.  If you are watching costs, November  can be  a less expensive time to visit, but the weather can be unpredictable.   On two November trips, I had flawless weather, and even unusually warm on my last one, but in November 1993 I had quite a bit more rain, including major blocks over several days and temperatures in the 50s F (low teens C).  In November, take light sweaters and a light jacket, but remember to take hats for the sun, which can still be intense.  March can also be quite nice, with wildflowers blooming after the winter rains.  If you go in December through February, know that the weather can be quite cool, wet, and  even nasty.  Snow is quite rare (and only in the higher elevations, such as Jerusalem), but temperatures in the 40s F (single digits Celsius) with rain are common.  From May through midOctober, rain will not be a problem.  I have made three trips in late June, and it can be hot, but not generally brutally so.  May is a wonderful time to go, unless, like my friend Louis, you have allergies to olive tree pollen, because they’re in full bloom.  Temperatures are generally in the 70s F (high 20s C) every day except occasional heat waves, and the evenings are just delightful.  The temperatures were also quite nice in October, though more variable.  Even in the summer, we have sometimes needed a light jacket for evenings in Jerusalem, which remained lovely.  July and August will be quite hot, even brutally so, and more crowded, because that is when families travel.   The climate is basically the same as Southern California.   At the Dead Sea or Eilat, though, it is hot year around, and in the summer, extremely hot, like Arizona. Even in the summer, do not pack too many pairs of shorts – at most holy places neither women nor men can gain admittance in shorts.  Overall Israelis wear shorts less often than Americans, particularly women.  It’s not inappropriate outside of religious sites, but the shorts-and-sneakers look may identify you as American if you care about that.  On my most recent trip, I showed up looking like that, and an Israeli friend said  – with a smile  – “could you look any more American!”   On days when you will be touring religious sites, legs  and shoulders  must be covered (men and women).  For women, skirts  below the knee  or  long  slacks are required, especially at Muslim sites.  A shawl or light shirt or jacket that can be thrown over a sleeveless
blouse or dress will  also work.  Capris are fine if they go to at least mid-calf.  But in secular areas, less conservative attire is perfectly fine.  In Tel Aviv, almost anything goes!


miércoles, 28 de septiembre de 2011

Security issues



This is a constant aspect of Israeli life, and I won’t minimize it.  Despite what you hear and read, however, you are safer in Israel than in many major American cities, especially now with far less terrorism in the cities than was true in the awful years of 2001-03.  Here is a sobering statistic.  My hometown of Cincinnati, Ohio had some 80 homicides in 2006 out of a population of 350,000.  Extrapolated to a population the size of Israel’s 7,000,000 people, that would be the equivalent of 1,600 dead in just one year.  Yet there have not been that many people killed in terror attacks in 61 years of Israel’s history!  So where am I safer?
Every time I have traveled to Israel, I felt utterly safe at all times.  Neither I nor the friends I traveled with were ever afraid.  Don’t believe the media image!  Just pay attention to the news, ask for local advice on conditions in more sensitive areas, and use common sense.  Remember you won’t be in Gaza. Throughout the country, you will see armed soldiers or civil guards, some in uniform, some not. It does not mean something untoward is happening.  It is just a fact of life, and you will get used to it. Some Israeli civilians carry pistols, especially in Jerusalem.  Do what I do – if the Israelis around you look concerned, worry.  Otherwise, don’t.  Many restaurants, hotels, museums, or other public places have a security guard at the door who will check your bag, perhaps your ID, and you.  It’s a shame it has to be, but their presence makes me feel safer, not less so.  Some restaurants add a very small surcharge on the bill to pay for security; while you are not required to pay it, I do.  It’s obviously worth it. Never leave a bag or item of luggage unattended in Israel, at the airport or anywhere else.  If you do, you are both taking a huge risk and may well return to find that the bomb squad has arrived and blown up your bag.  Similarly, when approaching many religious or political sites, or other public places, you will need to open any bags, back-packs, or purses for inspection, as noted above.  It’s routine, and you’ll quickly get used to it.At the airport (your flight to Israel if on El Al; any flight going out) you will be subjected to intense questioning by Israeli security agents, some of which may seem pointless and intrusive.  I get asked where I learned Hebrew and for the names and addresses of all of my Israeli friends.  It can be intimidating.  Just answer honestly and keep your cool.  They are looking for nervousness, unrest, and inconsistency.  Your bags may be searched – mine
were in 1993 – and I mean searched: everything taken out and carefully felt by hand.  The airport also uses more sophisticated X-ray techniques these days, and you may be asked to open just one bag because something unusual was seen on the screen.  That happened to me in both 2005 and 2006, and was no big hassle.  But the experience is  very different from US airport security, and, frankly, it’s far more effective. 
I’ve heard Israelis say that “you screen things.  We screen people.”  Don’t take it personally – the security agents cannot read minds or hearts.  You also need to understand that there is an overt profiling aspect to Israeli security.  If you are of Arab ancestry or “look Middle Eastern,” or have visited Arab families or areas, you will be subject to far more questioning and perhaps searches than others.  If you are Jewish, it will probably be easier.  Is this racist?  Perhaps to some degree it is.  As a non-Jew who speaks Hebrew, they don’t quite know what to make of me, and I was very upset when I was pulled out for two and a half hours of  intensive  questioning and the complete item-by-item search of my luggage in 1993, all because I had stayed with some Israeli Arab friends and  don’t otherwise fit the profile of Christian  visitors to Israel.  I even wrote a half-dozen complaint letters to everyone from the Prime Minister on down.  After the September 11 attacks, I would be far more understanding that Israelis don’t have the luxury to debate the
need for this in a world where there are people trying so hard to kill them.